The lovely town of Yamaguchi
Travel | Sacred Travel | Japan
12 April 2024
Following St Francis Xavier to Yamaguchi — the quiet city where he preached in the streets, converted Japan’s first Jesuit, and changed the course of Christian mission in Asia. With an unexpected materialisation photograph at the Xavier Memorial Park. (7 min read)
Today I am in Yamaguchi City in the middle of Yamaguchi Prefecture, in the southwestern corner of Honshu, the main island of Japan. It took me about 3 hours by train from Kagoshima, in the very south of Kyushu — a dramatic contrast to Xavier’s journey in 1550.
I was surprised and delighted by Yamaguchi, a city of about 200,000 nestled in a very green and mountainous region. It is quiet, walkable and inexpensive. I’m not alone. The NY Times selected the prefecture as one of the 52 places to go in 2024! I received an excited welcome from an English speaking volunteer at the train station. She had visited Sydney some years back and was surprised someone would visit her city because of Xavier. She knew of the Xavier Memorial Church and Museum but could recommend nothing else related to him. In fact, there is also a Memorial Park and a plaque on the main market street acknowledging where Xavier would preach.
The Xavier Memorial Church is modern but well done (and it has a relic from the tip of his right index finger). The community museum underneath the church, with paintings, relics, books, etc makes a very fine effort to tell Xavier’s story. I met two lovely museum volunteers who were keen to help me and, like the ones in Kagoshima, gave me gifts. One of them organised a taxi to take me to the Xavier Memorial Park where I was gifted with another materialisation photo — which created quite a bit of awe and excitement when the volunteers saw it.
Just recapping Xavier’s story so far…
Xavier left Kagoshima in August 1550 after things turned sour with the local daimyo. He arrived in Yamaguchi in November, having travelled a long 250km. The first part of the journey was by boat to Hakata but the last 125km was by foot, including over snow-covered mountains.
Xavier and his two companions found a place to stay in Yamaguchi in the house of a man named Uchida. The news of his arrival spread throughout the city and many people were interested in the new teaching. Xavier decided to interrupt his journey to Kyoto to preach.
Xavier went twice a day with Fernandez as his interpreter to preach at one of the many streets or intersections in Yamaguchi. Fernandez read aloud from the Japanese catechism and gave a commentary upon it, at times translating interjections by Xavier. Changing their location each day, the Jesuits eventually preached in every major gathering place in the city.
Fernandez preached mainly on the creation of the world and man and of three serious sins of the Japanese: idolatry, sodomy and infanticide. The reaction of the crowds to the preaching was mostly poor and the Jesuits were followed, taunted and insulted.
Xavier and Fernandez were invited into the homes of many prominent noblemen, including Ouchi Yoshitaka who was one of the most powerful daimyo in Japan at the time, controlling provinces in northern Kyushu and six on the main island.
Xavier and Fernandez appeared before the daimyo in their poor clothing. He asked them many questions and then listened to the catechism for over an hour. When Fernandez reached the section on the sin of idolatry and the passage on the sin of sodomy, the daimyo was visibly upset. They were dismissed without a word, but they continued street preaching for some time, with little visible success. This likely influenced the decision to move on to Kyoto.
Xavier’s correspondence notes that one day, when Fernandez was preaching, one of his hearers came and spat in his face. Showing no emotion, Fernandez withdrew his handkerchief, wiped his face, and continued with his preaching. This act of self-control made such an impression on Uchida, their host, who was present, that he asked for baptism. He and his family were the first to receive it in Yamaguchi. Conversions were few, however, and eight days before Christmas 1550 Xavier left for Kyoto.
The purpose of the trip to Kyoto was to request permission to preach throughout Japan. It was not a success because Kyoto was in turmoil due to war between the daimyos. The Emperor had no real power. So Xavier returned to Yamaguchi with Fernandez in April and was there for another 6 months.
Xavier changed his approach to the daimyo on his return to Yamaguchi. He made his group wear beautiful garments and presented daimyo with unusual products of European culture. Yoshitaka was overjoyed by this and gave permission for the missionary work as well as providing a residence for Xavier.
Xavier was allowed to use an abandoned Buddhist temple in Yamaguchi, where he preached for several months. This was the site of the park where spirit appeared in my photos.
Historical documents state that he converted more than 500 Japanese in the six months leading up to March 1551. I can’t readily find the number of conversions after that. Most notably, in Yamaguchi Xavier met and converted the first Japanese Jesuit, Lorenzo.
Lorenzo Ryosai was said to be blind in one eye and almost sightless in the other, a baldheaded man with a misshapen face. He heard Xavier preaching and kept coming back to hear him, asking ever more questions until he was ready to convert. I have saved some information, in Xavier’s words and replicated the text from the monuments as best I can.
This little town is certainly worth a visit for pilgrims following Xavier’s path. In retrospect, half a day is enough but I am staying overnight and tomorrow go to Hiroshima. At the pleading of one of the lovely museum volunteers I will visit her church whose mission is to spread peace in the world.
Namaste.
© Paul McCarthy & Iluminar.au
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