There is a gift in Kagoshima
Travel | Sacred Travel | Japan
11 April 2024
Following St Francis Xavier to Kagoshima — where he made landfall on 15 August 1549, the first European missionary to reach Japan. A moving welcome from devoted locals, and reflections on his extraordinary courage and faith. (6 min read)
St Francis Xavier made landfall in Kagoshima, the southernmost point of Japan (apart from Okinawa), on 15 August 1549. It was the Feast of the Assumption and the 15th anniversary of his ordination.
Apart from some Portuguese traders who had stumbled on Japan a few years earlier, he was the first European to visit this country.
Xavier wanted to convert the Japanese to Christianity and it was his missionary zeal (and divine assistance) that enabled him to reach this country against all the odds. The voyage to Japan was horrendous and should not have succeeded.
Xavier’s group consisted of three missionaries, three Japanese, and two servants. The missionaries were Xavier, Father Cosme de Torres, and Brother Juan Fernandez. The Japanese were Yajiro (who was baptised Paul of the Holy Faith) and two attendants.
There are 138 letters and other documents by Xavier in existence so we have some great insights into his experience in Japan. His first letter from Kagoshima is attached to his post (it was written in 1549 but not received in Goa until 1552).
Xavier reports that his group was graciously received by the leaders of Kagoshima and welcomed into the home of Yajiro’s family.
Yajiro visited the daimyo (feudal lord) who was delighted with his visit. The daimyo’s mother requested a copy of an oil painting of Mary and Jesus, as well as a written account of the teachings of Christianity. Although the picture could not be copied, Yajiro spent several days fulfilling her latter request. A month later Xavier met the daimyo who granted permission to preach the new doctrine and provide for the support of the missionaries and their companions. The daimyo was actually interested in securing the trade with Portuguese.
Xavier and the others spent their first winter in Japan trying to improve their Japanese and learning as much as they could about Japan, especially about Buddhism and Shinto.
Xavier devoted a great deal of time to a catechism which he wrote and which then had to be translated into Japanese by Yajiro. In the end, the translation was imperfect, yet many came to hear Xavier speak and Xavier’s letters indicate the inquisitiveness of the Japanese.
Xavier spent almost a year at Kagoshima before setting out to meet the Emperor. It was difficult in Kagoshima as the daimyo was upset that a Portuguese trading vessel had landed at Hirado (rather than Kagoshima).
In 1550, Xavier left Kagoshima, and about 100 Christian converts, in the care of Yaijro. This was no easy task as there was a lot of pressure from the Buddhists who were impeding conversions. Interestingly, there are now over 500 Christians in Kagoshima (population 600,000) and about 2 million in Japan (population 125 million).
Today I caught three trains (two bullets) from Nagasaki to get an impression of how Xavier is remembered here. I chose a hotel halfway between the train station and Xavier Park (which is opposite Xavier Cathedral and Museum) and walked a lot! Xavier Park has a statue of Xavier and 2 of his Japanese compatriots (Yanjiro, the guide from Malacca and Bernardo, his first convert and the first Japanese to visit Europe). The park has the remnants of the facade of first Cathedral built on this spot.
The current Cathedral, across the road from the park, is very modern and functional (ie it is ugly) but at least they have custody of a first class relic of Xavier. The ground floor includes a tiny museum with a few items (mostly replicas, including Xavier’s letter 110).
I was quite unprepared for the welcome I received at the Cathedral. Gifts were showered upon me by a lovely woman who is clearly devoted to our saint. These included a holy medal, some pictures, water from Lourdes and the famous Oita Trappist Cookies (a place I would like to visit). A second lady chased me down to give another gift which is so beautifully wrapped I did not want to open it.
The love of these women for Xavier will stay with me… and I would like to think that the experience exemplifies a broader sentiment that is not otherwise so evident in the public realm.
To be frank, Xavier Park is ordinary looking, although it does have a magic phone box.
And while the Francis Xavier Landing Monument is something (and quite unusual with an ascension theme), it is located on the edge of a school (between football field and basketball court) in a pretty ugly setting.
There must be community support for Xavier. There is/was a Saint Francis Xavier Memorial Association and a Xavier Landing Monument Construction Committee. Out of respect, I’ve recorded the text on the plaques for the sculptures. Whether it is a matter of translation, or different versions of history, there are some finer points of disagreement with my reading.
As for Kagoshima, there is not much to commend it, especially on a grey day. It is a modern harbour city and there is a volcano nearby. There are some historical buildings and temples, including the site of the family temple of the daimyo who permitted Xavier to preach.
The journey to Kagoshima passes stunningly beautiful mountains and if you decide to try it you will probably be rewarded with many gifts too.
Tomorrow, I leave Kyushu and follow Xavier’s path to Yamaguchi.
Namaste.
© Paul McCarthy & Iluminar.au
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